En Primeur 2024: A Vintage Forged by Resilience, Defined by Defiance

📖 Read Time: Approx. 11–12 minutes

The glass of Pessac-Léognan Blanc in my hand tells a story that few expected just months ago. Bright and crystalline with citrus blossom, green lemon, and a refined minerality. It carries the tension and grace of a vintage shaped by extremes, yet delivered with elegance. A quiet triumph from a region that knows resilience.

As I taste through barrel samples during this April's En Primeur week, one thought keeps returning: against all odds, Bordeaux has turned disaster into distinction.

The Year of Living Dangerously: 2024's Climate Challenges

2024 will be remembered as one of the most singular growing seasons in Bordeaux's recent history paradoxically ranking among the wettest years on record while simultaneously being one of the five hottest since records began in 1900. The winter stood out for its mild temperatures and heavy rainfall, far exceeding the ten-year average.

While June flowering occurred under favorable conditions, September marked a stark change with cooler temperatures and frequent rain showers, making the harvest period particularly challenging. Relentless rain, devastating mildew pressure, and a capricious harvest period forced winemakers to make impossible decisions daily.

This battle wasn't just for a vintage; it was for their legacy. As Monsieur Frédéric Vicaire, owner of Château Coufran in Haut Medoc, encapsulates: "2024, marked by a battle against mildew and late maturation, was a balancing act. The incredible resilience of our terroirs close to the Estuaire, combined with the age of our vines, allowed us to guide this vintage, which is full of promise."

Unprecedented Yield Reduction

The result? Dramatically reduced yields even smaller than 2023 with Bordeaux's 2024 harvest expected to deliver just 3.3 million hectolitres of wine, a drop of around 13%. Average yields hovered at 35.1 hl/ha, the lowest since 1991, due to both weather challenges and structural change as Bordeaux's vineyard surface has shrunk from 103,000 hectares to 93,000 hectares with less viable plots being grubbed up.

2024's Wine Profile: Return to Elegance

Having spent years studying wine across continents and exploring how terroir influences taste profiles, I can confidently say that 2024 stands as one of the most intriguing expressions of Bordeaux's diverse terroirs I've encountered. The vintage's challenges have, paradoxically, created wines that speak with remarkable clarity of their origins.

Red Wines: Fresh and Subtle

In contrast to the warmer, more powerful vintages of previous years, the 2024 vintage stands out for its freshness. A quality that aligns with current consumer preferences: lower alcohol (around 12%), more finesse, and accessibility in youth.

The right bank has fared better than the left bank, which is surprising as Merlot often struggles in such vintages. Yet, Merlot that made it into the vats at top estates shows very high quality, often paired with brilliantly expressive Cabernet Franc. On the limestone heights of St. Emilion, some estates have created wines of remarkable precision, while Pomerol shows more uneven results.

On the left bank, excellent wines are emerging from Margaux, St Julien, and particularly St Estèphe, while Pauillac and the northern Médoc appear less consistent. The reds are characterized by natural freshness and aromatic intensity, with bright red fruit flavors leading the profile. Fine, smooth tannins make them highly approachable right from the start.

White Wines: Intense and Energetic

White wine grapes presented intense aromatic potential this year. Fruity, complex, with a particularly low pH, they bore the characteristics of very good, dry white vintages. The finest successes were found on the limestone or clay-limestone terroirs, where the diluting effects of heavy rainfall were greatly reduced.

The dry whites of 2024 are vibrant and expressive, with dominant citrus notes and crisp acidity that lend them a distinct freshness and energy. Sémillon grapes, picked around one week later than Sauvignon Blanc, contribute delicate aromas of pear and apricot to the aromatic brilliance.

Sweet Wines: A Perfect Balance of Freshness and Richness

Thanks to favorable conditions, Botrytis cinerea developed rapidly in 2024, unlike some recent vintages. Although concentration was moderate, perfectly botrytised grapes with good acidity were harvested, adding freshness and sparkle to the blends. The sweet wines offer a harmonious blend of power and acidity, promising excellent aging potential, potentially the standout category of the vintage.

2024 in Context: The Return to Classical Bordeaux

To truly understand the 2024 vintage, we must place it within the context of recent years. Unlike the concentrated, sun-drenched 2022 and 2023 vintages that produced powerful, structured wines with high alcohol levels, 2024 marks a return to a more classical, fresher Bordeaux style.

The 2024 vintage bears resemblance to 2021, another challenging year, though with important distinctions. While 2021 suffered from devastating spring frosts, 2024's challenges came primarily from disease pressure and late-season rains. Both vintages produced wines of freshness and relatively modest alcohol levels, but 2024 achieved better phenolic ripeness, resulting in more complete, harmonious wines despite the challenges.

In terms of character, 2024 sits somewhere between the elegant 2014 and the fresh 2021 vintages, offering the aromatic complexity of the former with the bright acidity of the latter. What distinguishes 2024 is its unique combination of freshness and accessibility.

Aging Potential: What to Expect Long-Term

While 2024 wines are characterized by their youthful accessibility, collectors shouldn't mistake this for limited aging capacity. The best wines possess the fundamental elements needed for long-term development balanced acidity, ripe tannins, and aromatic complexity.

For the red wines, aging trajectories will vary significantly:

Top Right Bank wines from Saint-Émilion's limestone plateaus should evolve beautifully over 15-20 years, with the best examples potentially developing for 25+ years.

Structured Saint-Estèphe wines may require more patience, with optimal drinking windows beginning around 8-10 years and extending for two decades or more.

Wines from challenging terroirs in 2024 will generally favor earlier consumption, with peak drinking windows of 8-15 years.

White Bordeaux from 2024 shows excellent aging potential, with the best examples having the structure to develop for 10-15 years.

Sweet wines are particularly promising for long-term cellaring, with Premier Crus potentially evolving beautifully for 30+ years thanks to their impeccable balance of sweetness and acidity.

Food Pairing Suggestions for 2024 Bordeaux

The 2024 Bordeaux vintage, with its vibrant freshness and finesse, offers a versatile canvas for food pairings. Whether you're enjoying the crisp whites or the elegant reds, the following suggestions will highlight the wines' nuanced flavours:

Red Wines:

Saint-Émilion (Merlot-Cabernet Franc): These wines, with their softer tannins and fresh red fruit notes, are perfect with dishes like roast duck with orange glaze, grilled lamb with rosemary, or mushroom risotto. The wine's subtlety allows it to pair beautifully with delicate meats and umami-rich dishes.

Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe (Cabernet Sauvignon): The more structured, full-bodied reds from these areas shine alongside hearty meats like filet mignon, braised beef short ribs, or duck confit. The tannins in these wines are best complemented by rich, savory flavors that stand up to their power.

Pomerol (Merlot): These wines' plush fruitiness pairs wonderfully with grilled pork tenderloin, roasted chicken with herbs, or barbecued ribs. The round texture of Merlot enhances the sweetness in the meat, creating a harmonious balance.

White Wines:

Dry Whites from Pessac-Léognan and Graves (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon): The crisp acidity and citrusy notes of these whites make them an excellent match for grilled fish with lemon and herbs, seared scallops, or goat cheese salads. Their bright freshness also works well with shrimp ceviche or lobster with butter sauce.

Sweet Wines from Sauternes and Barsac: The rich, honeyed sweetness of these wines pairs excellently with foie gras, blue cheese, or spiced apple tarts. The balancing acidity in the wines makes them perfect companions for savory or rich desserts like crème brûlée or peach cobbler.

Cheese Pairings:

Soft and creamy cheeses like brie or camembert are fantastic with the fresh reds, especially from Saint-Émilion or Pomerol.

Hard cheeses such as aged Gouda or Parmesan pair well with the structure and intensity of wines from Pauillac or Saint-Estèphe.

For sweet wines, consider pairing with Roquefort or Stilton, as the richness of these cheeses complements the honeyed notes of Sauternes.

Spicy and Grilled Dishes:

The vibrant acidity and fine tannins in the 2024 Bordeaux reds make them a great match for East African cuisine. Whether you're enjoying the heat of a Kenyan nyama choma (grilled meat) or the bold flavors of a spicy nyama stew, the reds' freshness and structure will complement the spices beautifully.

For the whites, their crisp acidity and citrus notes are perfect with the rich, aromatic flavors of coconut curries or creamy chicken dishes. These wines bring out the subtle complexity of the coconut, while balancing the creaminess with their refreshing zest.

For something with a touch of sweetness, try pairing the sweet Bordeaux wines with a spicy pineapple flambé. The honeyed notes of the wine work in harmony with the tangy, sweet pineapple, while the spice brings out the wine's complexity and depth.

Market Context: Commercial Implications

The 2024 En Primeur campaign arrives at a pivotal moment for Bordeaux. After several years of escalating prices, particularly following the highly acclaimed 2022 and 2023 vintages, the market has shown signs of fatigue. The global fine wine market has cooled considerably since mid-2023, with the Liv-ex Bordeaux 500 index down approximately 10% over the past 12 months.

Compounding matters is the substantial inventory still in the pipeline from recent vintages, creating a crowded marketplace. The challenging economic environment—with persistent inflation and high interest rates—has further dampened consumer enthusiasm for new releases.

On Wednesday 23rd April 2025, Pontet-Canet released at €60 per bottle, echoing their successful 2019 strategy, which saw a sharp drop to €58 from the previous year's €84. That move sparked swift momentum back then, and this year's release seems just as shrewd—striking a confident balance between value and quality. The campaign is now underway.

Consumer Advice: Strategic Buying Approach for 2024

Given the unique character of the 2024 vintage and its market context, here are some strategic considerations for wine buyers. Drawing from my experience both as a wine consultant and culinary expert who regularly bridges the gap between wine selection and dining experiences, these recommendations focus on wines that will not only cellar well but also enhance your dining table experiences:

Top Appellations to Watch

Saint-Émilion: The limestone plateau and côtes produced some of the vintage's most compelling wines. Look for properties with significant Cabernet Franc in their blends, which performed exceptionally well.

Saint-Estèphe: The cooler, later-ripening terroirs of this appellation aligned well with the vintage conditions, producing wines of surprising depth and structure.

Pessac-Léognan: Both red and white wines showed remarkable consistency here, with the gravelly soils providing crucial drainage during wet periods.

In this challenging time of economic uncertainty, we all need budget-friendly wines. Do not sleep on the following appellations:

Value Appellations

Lalande de Pomerol: This region quietly produces Merlot-dominant blends of exceptional quality and character, offering good value for money.

Cru Bourgeois: Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends from the Médoc, outside the 1855 Grands Crus. This classification recognizes estates offering excellent value and diverse styles, often approachable in their youth while still capable of aging.

Graves: Often overshadowed by prestigious Pessac-Léognan to its north, Graves delivers similar mineral complexity and aging potential at significantly friendlier prices.

Strategic Approach

Be Selective: This is not a vintage to buy broadly. Focus on producers known for meticulous vineyard work and sorting, as these were essential factors in 2024.

Value in the Middle: While the top châteaux managed the vintage admirably, some of the best values may come from traditionally overlooked properties in the €20-40 range that excelled through careful management.

Consider Whites and Sweets: The 2024 dry whites and sweet wines are standouts worthy of special attention, potentially offering better relative quality than many reds.

Right Bank Advantage: Given the surprising success of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in 2024, Right Bank wines generally offer better quality-to-price ratios this year than Left Bank Cabernet-dominated wines.

Wait for Reviews and Releases: Given the heterogeneous nature of the vintage, waiting for comprehensive critical assessments before committing to purchases would be prudent for all but the most sought-after names.

Primeur Campaign 2024: Expected Pricing

Given the current economic climate of inflation and slowing growth, prices are expected to continue the downward trend set by the previous vintage. Despite the smaller harvest, properties are likely to offer more attractive prices for the 2024 vintage. Looking at historical patterns, challenging vintages like 2021 saw price reductions of 15-30% from the previous year's levels. A similar adjustment would make sense for many châteaux in 2024, especially considering the current market saturation.

Conclusion: A Vintage of Character Through Adversity

The 2024 Bordeaux vintage embodies the region's remarkable resilience and centuries-old wisdom. In the face of daunting climatic challenges, the finest producers have created wines that speak not of defeat but of determination. Wines that showcase freshness, elegance, and an authenticity that connects us to Bordeaux's terroir in ways that more opulent vintages sometimes cannot.

This is not a vintage of easy power or immediate seduction, but one requiring discernment and appreciation for subtlety. The best 2024s offer a transparency that allows terroir to speak clearly, presenting an opportunity for collectors who value classical balance and ageability over sheer concentration.

What makes this vintage particularly exciting for me as both a wine and culinary expert is how these wines invite creative food pairings that cross traditional boundaries. The bright acidity and fine structure make them exceptionally versatile at the table, capable of enhancing cuisines from classic French to bold East African flavours. In a world where dining experiences increasingly blend global influences, the 2024 Bordeaux vintage offers a surprisingly adaptable companion.

What began as a vintage of despair has transformed into one of unexpected charm. These wines will forever stand as testament to the human element in winemaking. Proof that in the hands of passionate, skilled guardians, even nature's greatest challenges can be transformed into liquid poetry.

It's been an honour to taste this precious vintage. As we enter the second week of May 2025, I remain in awe of the dedication shown by Bordeaux's vignerons, and hopeful that the remainder of this growing season will bring them the reprieve they so richly deserve.

Cheers, darlings!