Beyond Grandma's Drink: Unearthing the Fortified Treasures of Roussillon
📖 Read Time: Approx. 8 minutes
Introduction
Ah, the holiday season approaches, and with it, my annual pilgrimage to source wines that will truly elevate your festive tables and fireside moments. This year, my compass has pointed emphatically south, to the sun-drenched vineyards of Roussillon in France. And darlings, I'm on a mission: to reintroduce you to a category of wine often dismissed with a nostalgic, perhaps even slightly condescending, "Oh, that's grandma's drink!" – fortified wines.
Much like a classic tweed jacket that's been in style for generations, fortified wines, especially those from Roussillon, are "old-fashioned" in the very best sense of the word. They are steeped in history, brimming with depth, and hold a tradition that speaks volumes of the land and the hands that craft them. Forget preconceived notions of syrupy sweetness or dusty bottles in the back of the liquor cabinet; the fortified wines of Roussillon – from the luscious Maury to the vibrant Rivesaltes and the elegant Banyuls are undergoing a renaissance, demanding a place at the contemporary table. Join me as I gallivant through this enchanting region, diving deep into its liquid treasures, and discover why these sweet, spiced, and utterly compelling wines are destined to become your new holiday (and everyday!) indulgence.
What Exactly Are Fortified Wines? A Brief History
Before we plunge into the specifics of Roussillon, let's demystify fortified wines. Simply put, these are wines that have had a distilled spirit, typically a neutral grape brandy, added to them at some point during their production. This addition serves two primary purposes:
To increase alcohol content: Fortification results in wines with a higher alcohol percentage, typically ranging from 15% to 22% ABV.
To preserve residual sugar: The added spirit kills the yeast, halting fermentation. If this happens before all the grape sugar has converted to alcohol, the resulting wine retains its natural sweetness. If fortified after fermentation is complete, the wine will be dry (like some Sherries).
This technique dates back centuries, originally conceived to help wines survive long sea voyages without spoiling. Think of the great classic fortified wines of the world: the mighty Ports of Portugal, the versatile Sherries of Spain, and the age-worthy Madeiras.
While they all share the common thread of fortification, each region, each grape, and each specific technique imparts a unique character. Roussillon, nestled in the southernmost reaches of France, has honed its own distinctive style, producing what are known as Vin Doux Naturels (VDNs), or "naturally sweet wines" – a slightly misleading translation given the human intervention, but indicative of the wine's intrinsic sweetness from unfermented grape sugars.
Roussillon: A Land of Sun, Sea, and Sweetness
Imagine a landscape where the towering Pyrenees mountains meet the glistening Mediterranean Sea, where ancient olive groves bask under a relentless sun, and a powerful northerly wind, the Tramontane, sweeps through the vineyards, keeping them healthy and concentrated. This is Roussillon, a department in the Occitanie region, bordering Spain, and a terroir perfectly sculpted for the creation of exceptional fortified wines.
The climate here is unequivocally Mediterranean – hot, dry summers and mild winters. This consistent sunshine ensures optimal ripeness in the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours. But it's not just the sun; the formidable Tramontane wind plays a crucial role, drying the vines, reducing disease pressure, and further concentrating the grapes. The soils are incredibly varied, from schist and granite in the higher elevations to limestone, clay, and alluvial deposits closer to the coast. This geological complexity, combined with the extreme climate, forces the vines to struggle, producing low yields of intensely flavoured grapes – the very essence of quality for VDNs.
The predominant grape varieties for Roussillon's fortified wines are the Grenache family: Grenache Noir (for red VDNs, offering notes of red fruits, spice, and chocolate), Grenache Gris, and Grenache Blanc (for white VDNs, providing citrus, floral, and nutty characteristics). Other varieties like Macabeu, Touriga Nacional, and even Muscat are also utilized, adding to the intricate tapestry of flavours. This confluence of ideal climate, diverse soils, and ancient grape varietals makes Roussillon an unparalleled cradle for fortified winemaking.
The Crown Jewels of Roussillon Fortified Wines
My mission in Roussillon this week is to journey through its esteemed appellations, each offering a distinct expression of the fortified wine tradition. Let's delve into the stars of the show: Maury, Rivesaltes, and Banyuls.
1. Maury: The Velvety Powerhouse
Maury, tucked away in the foothills of the Pyrenees, is arguably one of the most celebrated of Roussillon's VDNs, particularly for its red expressions. The vineyards here cling to steep slopes of black schist and gneiss, forcing the Grenache Noir vines to dig deep, producing grapes of immense concentration.
Maury wines are typically made predominantly from Grenache Noir, though Carignan and Syrah can also be included. The fortification happens during fermentation, preserving a significant amount of the grape's natural sugars. These wines then undergo a period of aging, which can range from a few years in tank to decades in large oak foudres or smaller barrels.
Tasting Notes: Expect a symphony of dark, luscious flavors. Younger Maury offers vibrant notes of blackberry jam, ripe cherries, and fresh raspberry, often intertwined with hints of dark chocolate and warming spices like cinnamon and star anise. As Maury ages, it develops complex aromas of prunes, figs, roasted coffee, tobacco, and dried fruits, sometimes showing a fascinating "rancio" character – a nutty, oxidative aroma akin to very old Tawny Port, indicative of deliberate exposure to air during aging.
Pairings: Maury is a dream with anything chocolate. Think dark chocolate lava cake, rich brownies, or a simple square of high-quality dark chocolate. It also shines alongside blue cheeses (like our stunning image!)., roasted nuts, or even a savoury-sweet dish like duck à l'orange. This is truly a wine that can stand up to and complement the richest flavours.
2. Rivesaltes: The Versatile Chameleon
The Rivesaltes appellation is perhaps the most diverse of Roussillon's VDNs, offering a spectrum of styles from fresh and fruity to deeply aged and oxidative. Made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, and Macabeu, Rivesaltes wines are classified by their color and aging methods:
Rivesaltes Ambré: Primarily from white grapes (Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu), these wines are aged oxidatively in glass bonbonnes (demijohns) outdoors or in oak barrels for at least two years. This process gives them their beautiful amber hue.
Tasting Notes: Aromas of dried apricots, orange peel, honey, nuts (almonds, walnuts), and spice.
Pairings: Excellent with fruit tarts, crème brûlée, or soft, mild cheeses.
Rivesaltes Grenat (or Rivesaltes Tuilé): Made from at least 75% Grenache Noir, these wines retain a beautiful red or "tuilé" (tile-red) color. They are aged for a minimum of one year, often in a mix of oxidative and reductive environments.
Tasting Notes: Red fruit compote, kirsch, cocoa, and sometimes a hint of tobacco.
Pairings: Fantastic with red fruit desserts, chocolate, or even charcuterie.
Rivesaltes Hors d'Âge: These are exceptional Rivesaltes wines (Ambré or Tuilé) that have been aged for a minimum of five years, often much longer, developing incredible complexity.
Tasting Notes: Profound nutty, spicy, and dried fruit notes; very complex and lingering.
Pairings: Best enjoyed on its own, or with very rich, complex desserts or aged cheeses.
3. Banyuls: The Coastal Elegance
Venturing closer to the Mediterranean coast, along the rocky slopes overlooking the sea, we find Banyuls. This appellation, often considered a rival to Port, produces VDNs predominantly from Grenache Noir (at least 50% for standard Banyuls, 75% for Banyuls Grand Cru). The proximity to the sea and the schist soils imbue these wines with a unique character.
A distinctive aspect of Banyuls aging is the use of glass demijohns left out in the sun, similar to the Ambré style of Rivesaltes, contributing to an intentional oxidative aging.
Tasting Notes: Banyuls often displays notes of dried figs, prunes, cocoa, coffee, and a distinct "rancio" character – a savory, nutty, often slightly smoky aroma that comes from controlled oxidation. Younger Banyuls can show more vibrant red fruit.
Pairings: Traditionally, Banyuls is a classic pairing for chocolate desserts, particularly those with a higher cocoa content. It's also exceptional with foie gras, blue cheese, and even certain spicy dishes.
Beyond the Stereotype: Why Fortified Wines are for Everyone
It's time to shed the notion that fortified wines are solely a "grandma's drink." This dismissal robs us of a truly versatile and endlessly fascinating category of wine. Like me, they're "old-fashioned" in the best possible way: full of depth, history, and tradition, yet perfectly suited for modern palates and contemporary tables.
Consider their versatility:
Aperitif: A chilled white Rivesaltes Ambré can be a delightful start to an evening.
Dessert Companion: As we've seen, Maury and Banyuls are iconic with chocolate, while Ambré styles shine with fruit.
Cheese Course: Many fortified wines, with their balance of sweetness and acidity, are magnificent alongside a range of cheeses, from pungent blues to aged cheddars. A pairing beautifully illustrated by our cheese and dried pineapple board.
Fireside Sipper: There's nothing quite like a glass of aged Maury or Banyuls on a chilly evening, its warmth and complexity providing perfect solace.
Cooking: They can add incredible depth to sauces and reductions.
Furthermore, their higher alcohol content and residual sugar mean they have incredible longevity. Many VDNs, especially the Hors d'Âge and those with prominent rancio character, can age for decades, evolving into wines of profound complexity. A bottle of Roussillon fortified wine is not just a drink; it's an experience, a journey through time and terroir.
My Roussillon Mission & Holiday Season Finds
This week, my gallivanting through the Roussillon region has been a true education and a pure fortified bliss. I've tasted, I've learned, and I've fallen even more deeply in love with these underrated treasures.
As I continue to source wines for the upcoming holiday season, I'm confident that I'll be bringing some truly special Roussillon VDNs back to share with you. These wines deserve a place of honor at your festive gatherings, by your fireside, and indeed, in your everyday enjoyment.
Stay tuned, darlings! If I find something truly special and I always do you’ll be the first to know. Santé!
Conclusion
The fortified wines of Roussillon are far more than just a sweet ending to a meal; they are a testament to tradition, terroir, and the enduring artistry of winemaking.
From the bold, fruit-forward Maury to the complex, nutty Rivesaltes and the elegant, coastal Banyuls, these wines offer a sensory journey unlike any other.
So, this holiday season, challenge your perceptions, explore something new, and let the magnificent fortified treasures of Roussillon grace your table. You might just find your new favorite "old-fashioned" indulgence.
What’s your favourite fortified wine?
Drop it in the comments—I’d love to add it to my tasting list!